THE DIY SUBWOOFER NETWORK

In this post I am going to share with you plans for a home theater subwoofer with some interesting design elements.             Parts Used* Dayton Audio Classic Series 4 Ohm 12" Subwoofer Young 300 W Plate Amplifier B52 3" x 5 " port flares Birch Veneered Plywood Wood Glue Birch Edge Banding Clear Poly Textured Coating Pocket hole screws Cap Head Hex Wood Screws Brad Nails 5 minute epoxy Polly-Fill Quilt Batting Sound Deadener   2 Design Goals    The hardest part of building a speaker is making it look good, especially if it is a budget build.  Wood veneer is a simple solution that that looks great, but it can really run up the cost of a project.  It is no more expensive to use cabinet grade as compared to veneering MDF.  The problem with plywood is the exposed layers on the edges. Some people like the look, I don't.  So, this design is going to make use of overhangs to cover as many edges as possible, and edge banding to cover the rest. As far as the sound goes,

There seems to be a lot of confusion about how to design and build a subwoofer enclosure with multiple subwoofers in the same airspace.  This blog post is going to clear it up. A Single Subwoofer in one enclosure Let's start off with something simple, a single subwoofer in a 2 cubic foot enclosure tuned to 28 hertz.  In this example the port has been drawn outside of the enclosure for easier comparison.  The port is 1"X12" and is 17 3/4" in length.  Before you go out an build this enclosure keep in mind that a 1"X12" port is probably not large enough to prevent port noise.  This size was chosen just as an illustration.           If you wish to add a second subwoofer then you will need to increase the size of the enclosure.  If you increase the size of the enclosure you will need to make a shorter port.  This is because you tune the port to the airspace in the box, not the number of subwoofers in the enclosure.  So here is a 4 cubic foot enclosure with a c